This region covers an area of roughly 500,000 square kilometres,
reaching from the Mitchell River halfway up Cape York (Queensland) to
Roper River (Northern Territory).
The region's northern edge is marked by the Gulf of Carpentaria while
in the south, it includes the ridges around the mining town of Mt Isa.
Only about 40,000 people inhabit this vast and truly remote area, with
more than 50% of them living in Mt Isa.
References:
Hema map "The Top End and Western Gulf" (ISBN 1-875992-61-8)
Gregory's "Queensland in your pocket", map 419 (ISBN 0-7319-0472-0)
The Gulf Country is not a land for travellers
looking for awe-inspiring attractions such as the Great Barrier Reef,
Ayers Rock, or the Sydney Opera, to name just a few of the world-famous
Australian icons. You won't find any five-star accommodation or
Sails-In-The-Desert style resorts around here.
However, if you want to experience the real
Australian Outback, the Gulf Country is one of its hidden gems. You will
enjoy to watch the abundant bird life, admire the colours of the parrots,
look out for crocodiles, see the golden Spinifex swinging in a balmy
breeze.
You wouldn't expect to
wheel along a sealed four lane highway, but it is not the Canning Stock Route
either. Be ready to tackle a few bone jarring corrugations
and the odd tricky river crossing, depending on the time of your travel.
Most roads are gravel, although roads to main centres may even be sealed.
During the Wet, most of them are impassable due to flooding, and even on
sealed stretches, a 4WD equipped with a snorkel might be the only suitable
vehicle.
If you and your vehicle are well prepared, you will enjoy a smooth
trip (see trip
facts and maps
for further info about our own trip "across
the top").
The Gulf Country with its numerous rivers and the
extended coastline is excellent for fishing, including the delicious
Barramundi. Along the Savannah Way, you will find a number of fishing
camps and fishing lodges, as well as shops to cater for your needs. At
many places, you may even hire boats, all you have to bring is your own
rods and lines.
For dinner, you might have your own fish cooked
on the Barbie after a pleasant day out on the Gulf of Carpentaria or on
one of the numerous river banks.
If the fish was not nice enough to care
for your bait, it is more than likely that one of your camp mates will
proudly offer you a fair share of his own spectacular catch of the day.
After sunset, you will listen to your fellow
travellers' yarn while you're sitting around the campfire with a can or
two of cold beer.
Amusement is guaranteed when you realize that everybody,
except for yourself, had to prove all the skills that a man could possibly
have, only to bash their way through the unforgiving bush in order to finally
make it to the camp site.
You definitely qualify as a wimpy city slicker if
you have to admit that you never happened to step on the giant head of a
lurking monster croc while you were trying to find a peaceful place to
cast a line.
The story goes that in 2003, a party of two proud
fishermen, after a day of naturally excellent fishing in the Gulf waters,
sat with a coldie in their hands to cool down from their hard job.
Before long, the first couple of tinnies had
only air left in them, and the blokes started to worry about the volume of
rubbish that they would have to take with them when leaving the camp
site.
The two had no flies on them, so they instantly
had the ingenious idea of crushing the empty cans!
Both being excellent sportsmen, they decided that
it had to be done in a competition. That's how the competitive beer can
crushing, also known as the International Trev-Tor Competition (named
after the two inventive bush bashers), became good practice throughout the
Australian bush.
Don't hesitate to ask your camp mates about it if you want to know
more...
Located on the eastern edge of the Gulf Savannah region, Undara Lava Tubes are
at 275 km
out of Cairns along the Highway One (Kennedy Hwy/Gulf Developmental Road)
to Normanton.
The tubes are renowned to be part of the longest lava flow from a
single volcanic crater in the world. Undara is an Aboriginal word meaning 'a long way'.
The Undara Lava Tubes were formed about 190,000 years ago when a major volcano erupted, its molten lava flowing down a dry river bed.
While the top layer quickly cooled and crusted, the magma below continued to flow.
As the eruption stopped, the lava drained out of the tubes leaving a series of
long tunnels. One of the tubes extends 160 kilometres.
Ancient roof collapses created deep, dark and moist depressions where fertile pockets of rainforest can now be seen.
Throughout the day, Savannah Guides take you on tours that give a unique insight into the geology and ecology of the Undara Volcanic National
Park.
Accommodation is available at Undara. You
may choose between the camping area or one of the superb
restored railway carriages nestled in the bush.
Chillagoe-Mungana Caves National Park
Chillagoe is
located at 210 kilometres by road from Cairns via Mareeba,
Dimbulah and Almaden. Approximately 45 kilometres of the road are
unsealed gravel. Allow three hours of travel from Cairns.
In the wet season, from December to March, intending visitors should
enquire on Queensland road
conditions before they set out for the trip.
Accommodation is available at Chillagoe.
Further
Information:
Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service
Cnr Cathedral and Queen Streets
PO Box 38
Chillagoe QLD 4871
Phone: +61 (0)7 4094 7163
Fax: +61 (0)7 4094 7213
Limestone
pinnacles towering above the surrounding landscape protect relict rainforest species
which contrast with the open eucalypt woodland of the surrounding plains.
Erosion has formed extensive cave systems
which were first explored only a hundred years ago. Ever since,
visitors have been attracted by their variety and beauty.
The caves are usually dry and temperate. No jumpers or jackets
needed. There are constructed, but not graded paths throughout, good
walking shoes are recommended.
The electrically lit Donna Cave is small with pretty formations.
You will have to climb 200 steps during the guided tour.
The
Royal Arch Cave has less delicate cave decorations and is
longer, more open and massive. The shape of some of the formations
remind the visitor of animals, such as elephants or goats. There are some 'daylight chambers' throughout the
cave, including the "fig tree chamber", named after the tree
that pushed its massive roots deeply through the now collapsed roof
of the cave.
The Trezkinn Cave is also electrically lit. It has high level walkways throughout, and a steep entrance and exit. A magnificent chandelier is one of the attractions of this small cave.
Sunset over the Gulf of Carpentaria
Karumba, 30 odd kilometres out of Normanton on a
sealed road, is the place to go if you want to watch the spectacular
sunset over the Gulf. Bring your fishing gear for a pleasant day out on
the sea (boats may be hired on the spot) and finish your day in the Sunset
Tavern on the edge of the Gulf to watch the sun drop into the water.
Lawn Hill (Budjamulla)
National Park
The park is located approximately 400km north-west of Mount Isa and 200km south-west of Burketown.
The last 200km from Mount Isa and the entire distance from
Burketown are unsealed and may be impassable after rain. Travel by 4WD vehicle is recommended. Vehicles towing caravans should travel via
Cloncurry and the Burke and Wills Roadhouse.
Lawn Hill NP is quite remote and visitors should be self-sufficient in
all supplies. Very limited supplies and a campground are available in
Adels Grove.
Further information:
Queensland Department of Environment
The Ranger-in-charge
Lawn Hill National Park
PMB 12
Mount Isa Qld 4825
Phone: +61 7 4748 5572 (3pm- 4pm)
Fax: + 61 7 4748 5549
For
your own comfort and safety:
Avoid visits from October to March.
Wear sturdy shoes, a hat and sunscreen and carry drinking water when walking. Observe safety signs.
With
its awe-inspiring gorges, sandstone ranges and creeks, Lawn Hill is
certainly one of Queensland's most beautiful national parks.
Lawn Hill Gorge is sacred to the Waanyi people. Visitors, please respect
their culture.
The Riversleigh Section, at the park's southern end, is part of the Australian Fossil Mammal Sites World Heritage Area and contains the fossil remains of many of today’s native animal ancestors.
From Riversleigh's D site, visitors have access to a self-guided
interpretive trail through the World Heritage Area. You need to be
self-sufficient, only toilets are provided. You may book commercial
tours in Adels Grove
If
you want to camp near Lawn Hill Creek, within the park. You
will need to register with the Ranger's Office.Toilets, cold showers, shared fireplaces and water are provided.
. There is also a campground in Adels Grove just outside the park.
No camping in the Riversleigh section, however.
Canoes
may be hired in the camping area to explore Lawn Hill creek and the
gorge.
Tracks
Upper Gorge track
7km return, 3-5 hours
Wild Dog Dreaming track
4·5km return, 1-5 hours
Cascades track
2km return, 1 hour
Rainbow Dreaming track
100m return, 10 minutes. Access by canoe.
Constance Range track
4km return, 3 hours
Island Stack track
4km return, 2 hours
Indarri Falls track
3·8km circuit, 1-5 hours
Morning Glory
A morning glory is a large cylindrical cloud that moves into the area around sunrise and evaporates in a few hours.
If you are in the Burketown area between August and
November, you are most likely to see the morning glory cloud formation.
Like giant tubes, the morning glory clouds will travel across the sky at
typical speeds of 40-60 kph. This is when glider pilots forget their wives
and kids and only want one thing- be up in the sky!
Morning glory waves may be more than 1000 kilometres
long and several kilometres in height.